“We strive for prosperity in the soil, sophistication in the glass, and community at the table.”
— Chef Dustin Valette
Upon entering The Matheson you’re struck by the sheer space, openness, exquisite lighting, impeccable décor and of course the, by now, infamous “Wonder Wine Wall”. We’ll get back to that in a sec. This building is a part of the owner’s legacy. The Matheson stands on the very site that Dustin Valette’s great-grandfather, Honoré Valette, a French immigrant, owned Snowflake Bakery in the 1920’s.
There are three levels to The Matheson and within this enormous, but somehow warm space one embarks on an adventure of culinary delights not unlike visiting a wonderful factory where you can sample a variety of foods and drink. Overseeing this multifaceted factory of gustatory temptations is Dustin Valette, the visionary genius, brains, and chef behind this creation, almost like a cherubic Willy Wonka. Valette’s eyes sparkle with delight because he knows you are going to love it. All of it.
Downstairs there’s the bar, and the incredible wall of wine where you can taste any of 88 offerings or have a terrific Japanese whiskey, a cocktail or whatever else your little heart desires. Food can be ordered here as well.
The main seating area has tables, banquets, and booths for a fine dining experience. Here we had some of the best food I’ve eaten in my life.
A sushi bar helmed by the inimitable Ken Tominaga, bows deeply to that delicious harvest from the sea.
Then there is The Mezzanine, sitting right above the kitchen offers an intimate atmosphere with glorious views of the entire production with its own reserve wine locker and photographs by acclaimed artist, Andy Katz.
On the third floor is a sophisticated lounge, Roof 106, where oysters, imaginative cocktails and pizzas from a wood burning oven, inspire the guest to be inquisitive and adventurous.
We were seated in the main dining area and were served by the bright, efficient and talented Hayley. Once we ordered everything came in a timely manner geared towards the customers maximum enjoyment. The appetizers were an homage to Adrian Arias of the famed El Bulli, the kind of refined and delicate flavor combinations that only a skilled chef and his intrepid team would concoct. Of course, all the food is consciously sourced being farm to table. The sushi platter is not to be missed, it excelled in both variety, freshness, and creativity. Mains included duck and Wagyu steak, with dreamy dessert of Chocolate baton, as quoted form their Instagram: “The 106 Grand Bar… this decadent, signature dessert from Pastry Chef @skylerspitz pays tribute to the classic candy bar. Featuring Valrona chocolate, a caramel mousse and chewy caramel, the bar is dipped in chocolate, coated in candied cocoa nibs and served alongside a passionfruit caramel sauce. A must have during your visit to The Matheson”. We paired all these delectable courses with expertly recommend wines by Ben, our Somm, and we were in heaven.
This place will take Healdsburg to a whole new level as a destination for culinary expertise and wine.
The Matheson is located at 106 Matheson Street in Healdsburg, CA 95448. Tel 707-723-1106
Be sure to visit Valette, Chef Valette’s other restaurant, it’s fantastic too!
Fun Facts:
•The huge open kitchen with chef’s counter is center stage for Valette.
•The building site has personal relevance for Valette, as it is where his great-grandfather Honoré Valette once owned and operated his first Sonoma County bakery over ninety years ago.
•The vaulted, curved ceiling in the The Matheson references the past, and is constructed with beams stained both natural and red in three bands, similar to the way Bordeaux wine barrels are intentionally stained with red wine down the middle.
•The wheat flour for the dough is sourced from a biodynamic, organic farm and vineyard ownedby local hero Lou Preston, a notable Dry Creek Valley winemaker, farmer and baker.
•Muralist Jay Mercado of San Francisco was commissioned to paint eight evocative murals cel-ebrating agricultural heroes of Sonoma County.
•Bicoastal Architect Cass Calder Smith Architecture + Interiors designed the space.
•The ingenious host stand made from an antique Italian wine barrel was gifted to Valette from friend and retired E&J Gallo vintner Marcello Monticelli, and built with hidden restaurant technology. (Look for the hidden plaque with the story.)
•The En Honoré, is a brandy cocktail that pays homage to a bootlegging page in the family his-tory book, is named after Valette’s great-grandfather, Honoré Valette